Guruvayoor, the abode of Lord Sree Guruvayoorappan, is located 29 kms north west to the cultural capital of the 'God's own country', Kerala. This narrow coastline strip of land on the south western edge of Indian subcontinent is one of the 10 paradises in the world.
Guruvayoor is a thriving township in Trichur district of Kerala state in the South of India, its scenic beauty and serenity are breath taking. Guruvayoorappan is the chief diety here - The God which hears the prayers of its pilgrims. Guruvayoorappan is adorned with the holy tulasi (Basil) garland, and pearl necklace the Lord here appears in all radiance to bless the devotees.
HISTORY
The central shrine is believed to have been rebuilt in 1638 A.D. By then it had become the most famous center of pilgrimage in Kerala mainly due to the five devotees who propagated the glory - Poonthanam, Melpattur, Vilvamangalam, Kururamma and the Prince Manadevan (Zamorin).
In 1716 AD The Dutch plundered and set fire to the temple. It was rebuilt in 1747 AD.In 1766 AD Haider Ali captured Calicut and Guruvayoor, but spared the temple for a reason of 10000 Ferams which was paid by Vatakkepat Variyar.The general insecurity prevailing; the flow of pilgrims and the annual payment of tenants ceased. Haider Ali however gave a 'Devadaya' (free gift) to the temple in 1780 AD., on the recommendation of the Governer of Malabar, Srinivasa Rao and thus saved the temple from total extinction.
In 1789, Tipu Sultan, Haider Ali's son and successor descended on the scene to defeat the Zamorin and to convert Hindus to Islam. Fearing destruction of the image, the Mulavigraha (Main deity) was hidden underground and the Utsavavigraha (processional deity) was taken to Ambalapuzha. Tipu set fire to and plundered the temple. But a timely rain and an incorporeal voice averted a major catastrophe. After the English drove out Tipu, both the vigrahas (deities) were reinstalled. From 1875 to 1900, the Ullanad Panikars came in and offered their free secures to the lord apart from contributing from their family estates. [Like the earlier devotees Chempakasseri Nambudiri & Desavarma Nambudiri who had donated everything they had, to the lord.
In 1841, the Govt. of Madras restored the Devadaya appropriated by Tipu Sultan. Slowly & steadily the temple became prosperous. All the portions were rebuilt renovated and ornamented. At the turn of the 20th century various reforms have seen in the temple under the administration of its manager Sri Konti Menon. In 1928, the Zamorin once again became responsible for the administration of the temple.
In 1931-32, a Sathyagraha was launched under the leadership of Kerala Gandhi, i.e., Kelappan, a prominent group leader of Kerala, to secure the entry of untouchables in to the temple. All this resulted in the Travancore Temple Entry proclamation in 1936, and similar measures in British Malabar in 1946 & Cochin in 1947.
Since then every Hindu is permitted to have a darshan of the Lord outside the sanctum sanctorum (Sree kovil). Yet the offering of Namaskara sadhya (feast) exclusively to Brahmins in the Uttupura (dining hall) continued. Finally this custom was also sapped. From 1st Jan 1982, the Devaswam itself feeds 500 – 1000 pilgrims, with Prasadam (Prasada Oottu). Devotees too can make an offering of any amount for free feeding.
On 30th November 1970, after the 6th day of the annual Ekadasi festival, a disastrous fire broke out in the temple Hindus, Muslims & Christians fought the fire shoulder to shoulder. Despite 5 hours of the raging fire, the Srikovil, the vigraha of Guruvayoorappan, and the subshrines of Ganesha, Ayyappa and Devi, and the flag staff remained intact.
FESTIVALS
Ulsavam (Festival):
This is conducted in the month of Kumbha (Feb-March) and lasts for 10 days. The hoisting of the temple flag atop the flagstaff (Dwajastambham) about 70 feet high heralds the festival. On the 1st day, an elephant race is held. On the next 6 days, there are elephant processions in the morning, afternoon and night. In the morning, there is the Sribhuta Bali (Offering of oblation at various altar). There are various cultural programs like dance, music, religious discusses are held at Melpathur Auditorium (outside the temple) on all these days. On the 8th day, ‘Utsavabali’ (from 10 am to 4 pm) or oblations are offered to the Lord’s lieutenants.
A sumptuous feast then awaits the devotees. Pallivetta or the hunting expedition of the Lord takes place on the 9th day. This hunt is symbolic of the destruction of Kama (desire), Krodha (anger) and other such evils that plague us in our life. After that the Lord's Thidambu is takan to the Rudratheertha (temple pond) for Aarattu, amidst the chanting of mantras. Thousands of devotees also take the dip, chanting the Lord’s name to purge them of their sins. Then ucha Pooja (i.e, noon worship –this takes place at night only on this day) is held at the Bhagavati shrine. Finally, the Lord returns to the sanctum sanctorum after 11 circumambulations. The temple flag is then lowered signifying the end of the festival.
Vishu:
The Malayali New Year day, Vishu, falls on the 1st of Medam month (mid-April). As the belief goes, one’s fortunes for the year depends on the auspiciousness of the objects that one sees first at dawn on this day. Accordingly a kani (omen) consisting of konna flowers , raw rice, gold, betel leaves and nuts, yellow cucumber and coins, are so arranged in front of the family deity in the previous night itself, so that one sees them at first glimpse on waking up in the morning.
Seeing the kani at Guruvayoor is considered very auspicious and hence millions of devotees stay overnight, blindfold themselves and set their eyes on the Kani and the glorious deity as the doors are as usual opened for the dharshan at 3 a.m.
Vaishka:
The lunar month from the day following the new moon of Metam (April-May) to the following new moon. The observance of austerities or ‘Vratha’ during this month is considered especially sacred to Vishnu.
Ashtami Rohini:
In the month of Chingam (July-Aug), under the Rohini Nakshatra, on the 8th day of the waning moon of Sravana is the day of Lord Krishna’s birth i.e. Janmashtami.
A very special day in all Sree Krishna temples, Guruvayoor Devaswom itself offer a niramala (full of garlands and vilakku), devotees flock in with appam (Cakes of rice paste and jaggery) considered the most favourite food of the Lord on that day.
Kuchela’s Day:
This is observed on the first Wednesday of Dhanu (December-January). Kuchela was a poverty-stricken Brahmin and a childhood friend of Lord Krishna. One day, he went to seek Krishna’s help, at the instance of his life. He carried with him a small gift of beaten rice to offer his friend. On reaching Dwaraka, he was not only welcomed warmly by Krishna, and made to feel at home, but was also asked what he had brought for him.
POOJA TIME
THE DAILY POOJAS IN THE TEMPLE
THE TEMPLE OPENS AT 3.00 AM
3.00am to 3.30am Nirmalyam
3.20am to 3.30am Oilabhishekam, Vakacharthu, Sankhabhishekam
3.30am to 4.15am Malar Nivedyam, Alankaram
4.15am to 4.30am Usha Nivedyam
4.30am to 6.15am Ethirettu pooja followed by Usha pooja
7.15am to 9.00am Seeveli,Palabhishekam,Navakabhishekam, Pantheeradi Nivedyam, and Pooja
11.30am to 12.30pm Ucha pooja (the noon pooja)
TEMPLE WILL BE CLOSED BETWEEN 1.30PM AND 4.30PM AND REOPENS AT 4.30 PM
4.30pm to 5.00pm Seeveli
6.00pm to 6.45pm Deeparadhana
7.30pm to 7.45pm Athazha pooja Nivedyam
7.45pm to 8.15pm Athazha pooja
8.45pm to 9.00pm Athazha seeveli
9.00pm to 9.15pm Thrippuka, Olavayana
9.15pm The Sreekovil will be closed. On the day of Special Illuminations called "Vilakku" the Thripuka is performed after that. The Sreekovil will be closed after Thripuka. Then the Krishnanattam, a colourful traditional dance-drama on Lord Krishna's life is enacted inside the Temple on specified days.
*The timings given are approximate. It may vary if there is Udayasthamana pooja or on certain special occasions.
MAJOR ATTRACTIONS
Udayasthamana Pooja: This is the most popular offering, the booking for which are said to have been done for the next ten years. Udayasthamaya literally means from sunrise to sunset. Hence it implies worship from sunrise to sunset. It consists of 15 special Poojas in addition to all the routine poojas and begins after the morning Siveli. There is a special feast for the devotees. There is the Vilakku (illumination) in the evening. The Siveli in the evening takes 5 rounds instead of the usual 3. The tripuka marks the end of the udayastamana pooja.
Prasadaootu: These are arrangements for free feeding as Prasadams at the dining hall for thousands of pilgrims at 10.00 AM everyday. One can make an offering of any amount (min Rs 1) for this free feeding.
Elephants: Devotees offer elephants to Guruvayoorappan and today there are about 40 elephants kept with Punnathur Kotta maintained by the Devaswam. The feeding of these elephants- Anayoottu is another popular offering that attracts many on-lookers. All the elephants are taken to the temple at around 10 A.M, and fed a sumptuous feast of fruits, molasses and boiled rice.
Tulabharam: A devotee is weighed against a commodity of his choice-banana, sugar, water, gold, in fact anything permitted inside the temple. If you want to be weighed against articles not permitted inside, do not worry. Arrangements are made for conducting the tulabharam outside the temple. Also, non-Hindus can perform the ritual outside.
Annaprasanam: This is the first rice-giving ceremony of a child conducted before the Lord Guruvayoorappa . All the itemsincluding cooked rice, payasam (sweet preparation of rice and jaggery; rice, sugar & milk) plantain etc. are placed on a banana leaf and the children are fed each of these.
Alroopams: You can offer miniature images in gold or silver, or replicas of different parts of the human body, eyes, nose, limbs etc. It is believed to cure whichever part is affected and therefore offered. You can place it after depositing in the hundi, an amount devised by you.
Picking up Kunnikkuru: You can offer this to develop your children’s intelligence and smartness. A handful of these seeds (Abrus precatorious) are picked up and dropped thrice in the vessel kept for the purpose and an amount desired by the devotee is deposited in the hundi. Bhagavati Azhal: 10 or 20 wicks soaked in oil are kept in a sheath of plantain tree and lighted before the goddess Bhagavati. It is done after deeparadhana and athazha pooja.
Sayanapradakshina: Also called angapradakshina, the devotee circumambulates the temple, rolling along the pradakshina path with his eyes closed and chanting the Lord’s name.
Bhajan: This offering is the most fruitful and spiritually elevating- it is the complete dedication of oneself to God. It is austere worship, the devotees forgetting their worldly worries and associating them maximum with whatever goes on within the temple-heavy bath in the temple pond, drinking water from its well and having the Prasadam as food. Married people are expected to observe strict brahmacharya (celibacy) during the bhajan. Apart from these main offerings, there are a variety of archanas, alankarams, and naivedyams that can be offered. A list of all these offerings and their rates is displayed at the counters on the northern side of the temple.
Bhagavati Azhal: 10 or 20 wicks soaked in oil are kept in a sheath of plantain tree and lighted before the goddess Bhagavati. It is done after deeparadhana and athazha Pooja.
Krishnanattam: Krishnanaattam, which is the most important art form of the temple, is performed in the temple as an offering. Devotees can offer this as a vazhipadu or offering on a payment of the prescribed amount. Each days performance believably yields a particular benefit to those making the offering.
HOW TO REACH
By Road
Guruvayoor is well connected with the other parts of the country by road and rail. The National highway is passing through Kunnamkulam which is just 8 kms away from Guruvayoor. The private bus stand is towards the east of the temple, near Manjulal (the banyan tree). It is half an hour drive by car from Thrissur and busses ply every 5 minutes from Thrissur toGuruvayoor.
Kerala Road Transport Corporation (KSRTC) runs bus services from all major locations of the state and few inter-state services. The bus stand is 500 meters to the west of the temple. Both KSRTC and private busses offer interstate services to all major South Indian cities like Madras, Madurai, Palani, Salem, Coimbatore, Thiruchandoor, Mysore, Mangalore, Uduppi, Mookambika etc.
By rail
Guruvayoor has got a railway station towards the east of the temple which is connected to the Madras-Mangalore main line at Thrissur. It has got computerised ticket booking facility and tickets can be booked to any locations from here. One from the Mangalore side can get down at the Kuttippram station. Regular buss services are available from there to Guruvayoor. Those from the Madras/Trivandrum side can get down at Thrissur.
By Air
Kochi international airport (Nedumbassery) is 80 kms from Guruvayoor and the Calicut airport is 100 kms away. All major international flight services are operated from these airports.
Guruvayoor Anayottam
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